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Bret Johnston routesetting On routesetting as a growing career, what makes a good routesetter for commercial and competition routesetting, and the inevitable fate of career routesetters

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Bret Johnston grew up in climbing gyms. Before Bret was born, his father built the first climbing gym in America. It was called Vertical Club, est. 1987. It makes sense then that Bret would come to work most of his life in a climbing gym and, with routesetting peaking his interest, find a career working for one of the best climbing gym operators in the country.

Bret Johnston is now the Director of Routesetting operations for all three of Planet Granite’s gyms, and manages 19 routesetters. Along with that, Bret sets for multiple events throughout the year including chief-ing this year’s USAC Division1 competition in Reno, NV.

Show Notes for episode with Bret Johnston:

  • Growing up in climbing gyms
  • His new position as Director of Routesetting of Planet Granite
  • Routesetting as a career in the expanding industry
  • The importance of skilled routesetters in the climbing gym
  • What makes a good routesetter
  • Cultivating new talent
  • Gym grades and setting on the softer side
  • The fate of career routesetters
  • What goes into planning a high level competition
  • The hardest part about setting competitions
  • Advice for routesetters trying to get into professional-level competition routesetting

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